Sunday, November 30, 2008

There's joy in so many things




I'm posting this picture because I like it. It's from a few weeks ago when I was visiting my host family that lives in Kombo. Every time being with other PCVs gets overwhelming, I'll stop by my host family members that live in Kombo and it gives me that village experience I love, without the hectic travel of going up-country. Sometimes, things just make me smile, even when I'm missing the people I love. Today happens to be one of those days when I realize even though I'm far away from people I love, I'm still really happy to enjoy the moment while it's here. Miss and love you all.

Saturday, November 29, 2008

An Update (or maybe 10)

Here are bits and pieces about recent events and upcoming happenings:

1.For all of you that shared your concerns about Mero, she's better and almost fully healed, with little scarring.

2.Exciting news! The work for the women's gardens is finally moving along. The land has been mowd down, literally with only one minor mishap. The tractor driver accidentally ran into the cement wall of one of the garden's wells. Ooops. I can't really blame him as it was an accident, but seriously the weed growth was over 1.5 meters high. Unfortunately, this project has moved slowly. For one, things really do move slowly here and rice planting interfered during the rainy season and then we had a month of Ramadan, where people are fasting for most of the day. In addition, my travel back and forth to village and Kombo also affected the progress. However, much to my surprise and happiness, the garden committees met during my absence and collected money from every woman in the village in order to pay for the tractor use. I was so proud of their ability to get the job done! And once again, thanks to all of you for your support.

After returning to site, I was fetching water one morning and someone approached me saying that the tractor arrived! It literally was like Christmas, except no one told me Santa was stopping by unannounced.

3. I have less than 5 months left here now. It's bittersweet. Then I hope to travel a bit with my sister.

4. I'll be home on Christmas and will stay for a 3 week vacation, primarily to celebrate my Grandma's 100th birthday!

5. The cool season here and I'm back to wearing long sleeping pants and using a top sheet at night. How glorious!

6. Thanksgiving was absolutely fantastic this year. And it was great to spend time with some of my closer Peace Corps friends and staff. Many Volunteers (including this one) helped to make food and bake delicious desserts. Our American Associate Peace Corps Director of The Gambia kindly opened his house for about 100 Americans (and a few Brits). It was great, and the turkey was amazingly. Despite all the food and the fact that it felt like it was America, the power went out at one point in time and we didn't turn on the generator, and we were reminded that even though we had our little America, we were still in Africa. It's great to be able to have feelings of thankfulness and gratitude and I think they become even more apparent when one is away from home. Despite a great Thanksgiving, I missed my family and look forward to celebrating in the U.S. next year.

7. Training is going well and in two weeks, I'll leave my site again to assist in a few more training sessions where I am teaching about Community Assessment Approaches. Then, my job as part of the PCV training team will be finished. While I'll miss it, it's nice knowing that we've hopefully made a positive contribution to this year's training and future ones.


8. I'm so excited to be heading to site for 2 weeks. I have a lot to do while I'm there, and despite the limited time schedule, I hope to be fairly productive. There's work with the garden committees, possible local beekeeping training with a few of my counterparts (we'll make local grass hives), clinic work, tutoring/mentoring of my host brother and his friend,
souvenir shopping, and the Muslim holiday of Tobaski, for which I'm very excited as I already have my fancy African dress made. Can't wait to don it!

9. I had another infection on my leg this week, but it healed fairly quickly. Woohoo!

10. I still miss you all...A LOT!
Love,
Steph

Thursday, November 27, 2008

Thanksgiving and a Happy Birthday Shout Out to Mom

Happy Thanksgiving! May you all enjoy good food, good company, and blessings! Thanks for all your support. Gobble, gobble.


I'd also like to say---


Happy Birthday, Mom!


I'm so thankful for you. Can't wait to celebrate with you when I'm home (so very soon!) Love and miss you.

Wednesday, November 05, 2008

Mero

'Mero' is a term for an older woman here in The Gambia. But the sweetest, smartest, friendliest, littlest 2.5 year old you could ever meet is called Mero.

Let me tell you about Mero. When I return from being away, it's Mero that runs to me. She yells 'Jalika' (my Gambian name) and wraps her arms around my knees. Mero used to yell 'Jakali' because she couldn't say 'Jalika', but then she realized she could and despite this, still said Jakali because it brought her attention---she's definitely not stupid. Now, Mero calls me 'Binki' which is the term for aunt, since her father is my host brother.

Mero knows that I love her, and so does my family. I try not to treat her differently than the other little ones, but I do. I can't help it. At times, it's like she's not a Gambian child, but an American one. She plays, talks, mimics her mother's actions, laughs, and eats like no other despite her small size (she takes after her mother who is tiny).

The mothers and fathers in my compound are caring of their children (which at times, can be atypical of the other parents in the village). My host family (usually) listens to me when I tell them they need to tell their kids to put on their shoes, clean a wound, or feed them better food. And Mero's mother is especially attentive to Mero and to me. She listens.

But just like in America, careful and caring parents are not immune to things they can't control...like freak accidents.

I've always been afraid of dying in a fire or even being severely burned, yet I'm still fascinated by fire. It was to no surprise though that when I arrived in The Gambia and moved to my training village that I saw fire more as a danger rather than a source of life (cooking, warmth in the cold season, etc.) I've seen so many children burned by fire-related accidents here. I never witnessed one first-hand, but saw the burns after a few weeks. They became infected because of improper care, with children wincing with pain, almost cursing their parents and the world for letting it happen to them. Horrible burns when the dark skin is now light and there is pus and blood, but packed with soot and other 'traditional methods' of treating an injury.

Usually such burns occur when a child is playing near the 'kitchen' or a small charcoal burner (where green tea is boil and made into a sugary concoction called attaya). The kids are being kids---and fall over and sometimes fall straight into the fire or the coals. Hands, legs, chests, butts, and even genital areas are charred.

Some say I have a sixth sense (no, I don't see dead people...thank goodness), but I have these premonitions or thoughts of something that may happen in the future (usually it involves guys I've dated or been dating or situations with friends, etc.) It's just a feeling and sometimes a quick flash of thought that makes me remember that moment as a link to an even in the future.

Last year, with kids bouncing around the fire, either with attaya cooking or because the cold season settled in, I thought, 'Gosh, I hope one of 'my kids' doesn't fall into the fire. And if they did, I'd be destroyed and what would I do , how would I react, and how would my host family react if one of its children fell into the fire?'

Well, unfortunately, my thought became my reality last week. Little Mero was bopping around outside the kitchen with her playmates, Paabi and Amadou. Mero's mother had cooked breakfast, and she pour the corn porridge into the humongous, metal food bowl. She placed it outside the kitchen, on the ground to cool. She went into the house to add the sugar and somehow, Mero fell into the bowl of steaming hot porridge, while her mother stepped into the house for a few mere seconds.

I was in my house, sweeping and preparing my things to leave for a meeting in a village near the river. Then I heard it: the scream. Not the 'I want attention' cry, but a scream that conveys sheer pain. Mero's mother yelled her daughter's name, and I heard the rush of all of Fatty Kunda's women's feet running on the hard, compacted dirt.

I ran out, looked at poor Mero, and ran for cold water. I told one of my host mothers to get a bucket and fill it with cold water and to drop Mero in it. I didn't even know where the burn was at first. About 2 minutes of her sitting in the bucket, I saw it. Dark skin gone---white flesh exposed on a third of her back. I told them to go my counterpart's house, the Community Health Nurse, but said probably he wasn't there because he was deworming children at the schools in the area. If he wasn't there, they were to take Mero to the private clinic in the next village over, when I sometimes work.

As we pulled Mero out of the water, I saw the worst of it: burns on the inside of her legs, to her butt, and on her gential area, except the skin was still blistering. I held myself together, as did everyone else, except Mero's grandmother, NaLisa. She cried and wailed and everyone told her to stop. The look on Mero's face rattled every bone in my body. She is not Mero, I thought. Where did Mero go? She was in pain.

Mero's mother and I rushed to my counterpart's home, only to find, he had already left. Issou, Mero's mom, went ahead to the clinic by foot, while I returned to the compound to get my bike and tried to find Mero's health card, but didn't find it amongst Issou's things. NaLisa came with me (on foot) as Issou has a month and a half old baby to nurse and couldn't spend 2 hours at the hospital without nursing it.

NaLisa and I waited at the hospital for 2-3 hours. Mero only flashed a slight smile when I offered her an icee. My heart broke. Poor Mero. My clinic co-workers gave Mero medicine and antibiotics (by way of injection, which 2.5 year-old children already hate when they're well), and they cut the blister sacks open. NaLisa held Mero in her lap, as I held Mero's legs apart and still. The nurse punctured the blisters with a disposable bladed and dobbed up the liquid with an over-sized cotton ball. As the skin was drained, the skin was pulled away to expose a flesh of white.

As Mero screamed and I saw the flesh be cut away, I lost my control and started to cry and couldn't stop. The nurse looked at me and said 'You are crying.' and said the same to my host mother in Mandinka 'She is crying'. The nurse kind of chuckled to my host mother. I could have punched the nurse square in the face, but I was so weak and so drained, still crying, I just didn't care. NaLisa told the nurse (in Mandinka), 'Mero is like Jalika's own child. She hurts too.'

I sent Lisa with Mero and told her to buy the burn cream the clinic once again didn't have a supply of; NaLisa had to travel 7 kilometers on the gele-gele to purchase it at the pharmacy. And as she left to walk 2 kilometers to my village with Mero wedged on her front in a strategic way, so as not to irritate the wounds, I positioned myself under a tree on the clinic grounds. And bawled without any notion that there were patients and nurses staring as the toubab sulked in the shade. They know why...they've experienced the same pain, hurt, distress with their own children or members of their family. Mero is like my own child. She's in pain. And I know such an event of her falling into the porridge had a high chance of happening one day, yet I couldn't do one thing to prevent it.